Pinning the Hem
Once you have ironed a crease along the folded hem, it’s time to pin it in place. Start by pinning the hem at the side seams. Insert a straight pin perpendicular to the hem, about 1/2 inch from the edge. Push the pin through the hem and into the fabric of the pants, making sure to catch both layers of fabric.
Continue pinning the hem around the pants, spacing the pins about 1 to 2 inches apart. As you pin, make sure that the hem is even and that the crease you ironed is still visible. If the hem starts to shift or buckle, adjust the pins as needed.
Once the hem is pinned around the entire pants, try them on to make sure the fit is correct. If the hem is too tight, remove some of the pins and let out the hem slightly. If the hem is too loose, add more pins to take in the hem.
Once you are satisfied with the fit of the hem, you can start sewing it in place.
Using a Blind Hem Foot
For a more professional-looking finish, consider using a blind hem foot. This specialized foot folds the fabric edge twice, creating a nearly invisible stitch that hides the raw edge.
Materials:
| Item | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Blind hem foot | Folds and stitches the fabric edge |
| Narrow needle | Prevents thread breakage |
Steps:
- Adjust the sewing machine to the blind hem setting.
- Attach the blind hem foot.
- Fold the fabric edge up by 1/4 inch and press it.
- Fold the pressed edge up again by 1/4 inch and press it again.
- Align the folded edge with the guide on the blind hem foot.
- Stitch along the folded edge, making sure the needle catches both layers of fabric. The blind hem stitch will fold the fabric edges together, creating a nearly invisible seam.
Hemming with a Twin Needle
A twin needle is a specialized needle with two needles mounted side-by-side, creating parallel rows of stitching. It is ideal for hemming garments, as it produces a professional-looking finish with minimal effort.
To hem pants with a twin needle, follow these steps:
Materials:
- Twin needle
- Matching thread
- Bobbin thread
- Fabric to be hemmed
Steps:
1.
Fold the hem up to the desired width, ensuring that it is even along the entire length of the pant leg.
2.
Pin the hem in place, using a sewing machine needle or straight pins.
3.
Install the twin needle into your sewing machine, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
4.
Thread the machine with matching thread in both the top and bottom of the sewing machine.
5.
Set the machine to a straight stitch and select a stitch length that will create the desired hem width.
6.
Position the fabric under the presser foot, aligning the edge of the hem with the edge of the presser foot.
7.
Sew along the folded edge of the hem, ensuring that the needles are aligned with the edge of the fabric. The twin needles will create two parallel rows of stitching, securing the hem in place.
8.
Once the hem is sewn, remove the pins and press the hem flat.
Tips:
- For a stronger hem, use a heavier thread.
- If the fabric is thick, use a larger stitch length to avoid puckering.
- Practice on a scrap of fabric before hemming the actual pants.
Troubleshooting Hemming Issues
Hemming issues can arise for various reasons. Here are some common problems and their solutions:
Uneven Hem
This problem can occur if the fabric is not folded evenly when pressing or sewing the hem. To correct it, unpick the hem and refold the fabric carefully, ensuring that the edges align perfectly.
Puckering
Puckering refers to small gathers that appear along the hemline. This issue can be caused by using too much thread tension. Reduce the tension and ensure the fabric is properly pressed before sewing the hem.
Wavy Hem
A wavy hem may result from uneven stitch length. Adjust the stitch length on the sewing machine to create consistent and even stitches.
Fabric Fraying
Fabric fraying can occur if the edges are not finished properly. To prevent fraying, consider using a serger or zigzag stitch on the raw edges before hemming.
Hem Coming Loose
A loose hem can indicate that the thread used was not strong enough or the stitches were too far apart. Use a heavy-duty thread and adjust the stitch density to ensure the hem is securely attached.
Bulky Hem
A bulky hem may appear if the fabric is too thick or multiple layers are being hemmed. To create a neat and thin hem, trim the excess fabric as close to the stitch line as possible and press the hem carefully.
Visible Hemline
A visible hemline can be caused by using a thread that contrasts with the fabric color. Choose a thread that matches the fabric shade as closely as possible to make the hem less noticeable.
Table of Troubleshooting Tips
Issue Solution Uneven Hem Refold fabric evenly Puckering Reduce thread tension, press fabric Wavy Hem Adjust stitch length Fabric Fraying Serge or zigzag stitch raw edges Hem Coming Loose Use heavy-duty thread, adjust stitch density Bulky Hem Trim excess fabric, press carefully Visible Hemline Choose thread that matches fabric color
